Staircase balusters
A baluster can be a crucial element to your staircase handrail, both in terms of design and function. So when one needs replacing, it can look like quite a heavy task. Luckily, it's not as bad as you think, and once you tackle the tough work of finding a replacement baluster that fits in with the rest, many do-it-yourselfers should generally have a fair time getting the new baluster installed.
First, you'll obviously want to find a new baluster that is well-suited to match with your other ones. Make sure to find one from the same company, if possible, or failing that at least find something similar. It will also help to get a new baluster that is slightly longer - say an inch or two - than your other ones so that you can modify it down to the proper size and fit.
Finding a replacement baluster can be a major part of the pain involved, but once you have that in hand, you're ready to move to the next step. (Note: It will help to check out the other balusters as you do this, as there may be further damaging than you thought.)
Take out the old baluster and prepare the area for a new one, generally through a process of cleaning and sanding. Clear out any old debris that may be present so that your new baluster can have a smooth fit. Sanding the area down will generally help any painting you might need to do, so don't skip out on this part if you really want an accurate matching with the new baluster.
Next, do your best to measure the size the baluster will need to be, and subsequently cut it down to that size. Insert the baluster to the proper location and note any changes that might be needed - for example, do you need to whittle it down further? Make sure you use wood glue in order for the baluster to stay in place. Nail in the baluster so that it's secure, and paint the area you need to paint, letting it dry overnight.
Now that you look at your staircase handrail, you should notice a relatively consistent color and look. Congratulations! You've successfully fixed your baluster by replacing it. Keep in mind some of the repairs you've made in case you need to replace another baluster in the future. Now, if only the deck was this easy...
Photo Credits: Ctd 2005
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Posted by Fix Handyman on January 12, 2010 in
Handyman, How to Fix, Staircase
Blistering paint job.
When you add a coat or two of paint to your home, you expect that paint to stick there and for that to be that. But life isn't always that easy, as sometimes the paint will peel, blister, or even chip off. So how do you fix some of the most common paint problems you'll find around the house? If that's the question you're asking yourself this weekend, you've come to the right article:
Problem: Paint blistering. What does paint blistering look like? Like skin blisters, except not (necessarily) red. Blistering paint will have bumps that pop up, and this can be caused by a number of problems, such as trapped water vapor underneath the paint. You can't simply paint over this problem, so how do you fix it?
Solution: Start over. If the cause of the paint blistering is coming from inside the house, you'll want to fix that. But when it comes to the pain itself, you'll likely have to start over - scrap the paint off, re-sand the surface, and re-paint the area using the same method you did around the rest of the area. Let the paint dry and re-evaluate the entire area in a few weeks.
Problem: Paint is "chalking," spreading to areas underneath the paint in what looks like chalk. Paint that "chalks" has a layer of what looks like chalk appear on it, also affecting other areas that you don't want covered in what appears to be paint powder. Chalking is a problem that often comes from lower-quality paint, and you might see it if you used a contractor.
Solutions: You'll have to fix the paint itself, or else the area will simply continue chalking and you'll need to keep cleaning the effected area. In order to do this, you'll want to do as much as you can to replace the paint job - remember that chalk would be considered debris like any other paint job. Apply a layer of higher-quality latex paint after washing and rinsing the chalking off, and then clean the affect areas (such as masonry walls including bricks) with specialized cleaners that are designed for those areas.
Problem: Paint "sagging" or running makes the paint look like old skin. Forgive the image, but "sagging" is an ugly way for your paint to settle anyway. Here's how to fix it.
Solution: Sand over the effected area - where there will typically be an area of excess paint - and repaint over that area.
Photo credits: Photos by Mavis
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Posted by Fix Handyman on December 1, 2009 in
Handyman, How to Fix, paint
Get your home looking great!
Your home should look beautiful - not only because you live in it, but because you want to show a level of respect and responsibility when it comes to the things you own. Well, or the things you're paying off each month. Either way, if you want a home with beautiful siding, siding spots simply won't do. If you plan on selling a house with siding spots, it might be a good idea to take a Saturday afternoon to fix them. Here's how you can do it.
First, identify all of the spots you plan on fixing. Knowing how much fixing you're going to be doing will allow you to know how much primer and color-matched paint you're going to need. If you still have paint of the original color, make sure you have enough; if not, try visiting the hardware store to have the color matched.
Next, you'll have to find a way to grind the spot smooth. Whether this is with sandpaper or a small power grinder, you might want to get in touch with your hardware store and see what they recommend. If you already have a small power grinder, you shouldn't have too much trouble leveling the surface and preparing it for priming and painting.
Wear the surface down and try to make the level relatively consistent with the rest of the siding. Once the surface has been properly worn down, continue the "prepping" by cleaning out the area of dust and paint chips. You don't want to apply primer and paint over this debris, to try to clean each spot as thoroughly as possible.
Now that you've got a clean spot to paint over, apply your primer. Apply thinly but try to make sure that you also apply evenly and thoroughly. This will allow for more paint to stick to the area and completely fill in the spot.
Once the primer has dried from your siding spots, apply the paint. Use oil or latex-based paint for your siding, and - voila! You should be clear of siding spots.
You'll find that having a home clear of siding spots will help you feel more confident when it's time to sell it. You want your home to look as good as possible when you're selling it, and siding spots simply aren't in the cards. If you're simply taking care of your home for your own sake, you'll feel proud of yourself and might even ask, "what's next?"
Photo Credits: iLoveButter
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Posted by Fix Handyman on September 14, 2009 in
Handyman, House, How to Fix, paint
Fixing your deck stain?
The overall stain of your deck is part of what gives it its charm. The more you use your deck, the happier you are with your deck, but the more you can expect to wear away at the original stain of the wood. If your deck has been in need of a new deck stain for a while now, it's time to actually get around to it and update it with a fresh new look. You don't have to be a deck expert to get this done; you just need the right instructions.
First, you'll want to apply a deck stripper to the deck. This won't solve everything for you, but it will prepare the deck for what will happen in the next steps. Make sure that you choose the appropriate stripper for the kind of wood you have; if you have any questions about this, try asking someone at the local hardware store for some advice, or at least do an internet search on the type of wood you're using.
After this part of the job is finished, you'll want to rent a pressure washer. When you bring it home, be sure that your deck is clear of the big stuff (tables, chairs) and the small stuff (stones, debris). Why? You're going to be spraying down your deck with a high-intensity spray, and you don't want to send anything flying!
In conjunction with the deck stripper you've already applied, your pressure washer should be able to peel off the old stain to your deck, or at least give your deck a new, uniform color. You might also be able to incorporate deck cleaners that remove old stains; once again, questions should be directed to your local hardware or home improvement store. Once you've stripped the stain, wash it out and let the deck dry over the period of a few days.
Now that you've removed the old stain, it's time to select a new stain. You might have had something in mind already, but if you simply wanted to fix the old stain, you've got some thinking to do. Choose a stain that works well for your wood, and if you can, make sure to test the stain on an idle piece of wood to see that it has the color you like.
Once this is ready, you should be good to apply the new stain to your wood. You'll want to let it dry and set in before using your deck; after a period of a few to several days, your deck should be looking brand-new and properly stained. Congratulations! You've fixed a deck stain. Now if you could just get that wine stain out of your shirt...
Photo Credits: Jeff_Werner
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Posted by Fix Handyman on September 3, 2009 in
Backyard, Deck, Handyman, How to Fix
Shine Your Pine.
Furniture is often made from pine wood, which is a soft wood that can deteriorate over time. Even if the pine furniture you own was once shiny and new, it might not take very long for it to lose that luster. If you want that fresh pine look back, however, it may be as simple as following a few steps. Here's how you can fix the pine that won't shine in
your house.
As is often the first step when attempting a repair, you're going to want to clean your pine out first. It may seem unnecessary, but dust and debris can often get in the way of cosmetic home repairs. After all, you won't want to paint over a pebble, would you? That's why you'll want to make sure that your pine is clean and hopefully clear of debris before you get started.
The key to restoring the "shine" to pine is in the solution you'll be applying next. This will probably require a trip to the store, so make sure you have your list ahead of time:
- Soft soap (1/4 cup)
- Mineral oil (1 cup)
- Pine oil (1 tablespoon)
You're also going to want to make sure you have a cup of warm water handy. To mix up this solution, start with the mineral oil and pine oil first. Once they're mixed together, stir in the soft soap and the water. (By the way, if you're curious about what soft soap means, a liquid soap will do just fine).
Now that you have your solution ready, put some of it onto a cloth - you don't want to use it all up right away. Generously apply the mixture via the cloth onto the pine wood, but make sure that none of it drips or coalesces, as this is too much. In fact, once you're done, you can take a dry cloth and pick up extra solution that you applied.
It will be important to make sure that your solution doesn't only touch the surface of the wood, but seeps in as much as it can. You can't control this; you can only make sure to apply an even amount of the mixture onto your pine wood. Let it dry out and take a look at the pine later so that you can evaluate how well the solution worked.
It might be possible to fine pine solutions pre-made for you at a hardware store or other outlet. Before you go shopping, try to call around and see if a store has some stocked so that you can pick one up.
Photo Credits: Nature form furniture
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Posted by Fix Handyman on August 31, 2009 in
Furniture, Handyman, How to Fix
Rusty and crusty? No problem!
For the beginning handy-man, it's pretty obvious that none of us were born knowing how to fix devices like lamp posts. But if you have a lamp post on your property that's been gathering rust for who knows how long, it might be time to take out the equipment and set to work. Which equipment will you want to bring out? Start with steel wool (or a wire brush), a rust inhibitor, metallic paint, a high-speed rotary (see details below), and safety glasses or goggles. It's time to finally fix that rusty lamp post.
Use your steel wool/wire brush (you can use both if you want to) to scrape away any debris or dust that won't be part of this job. You'll be working with the lamp post and its rust - before you try anything else, you're going to want to make sure all other debris is removed. Getting debris in the way can lead to a poor paint job once it's all done; the goal here is consistency.
A high-speed rotary with a #500 aluminum oxide grinding wheel will be important for removing the hardest rust. You can't exactly expect to scrape the rust away. Make sure you wear safety goggles, no matter how brave you're feeling.
Once you've scraped the rust down to size, apply a rust inhibitor so that the areas you've exposed won't begin to rust over themselves. This might not seem totally necessary, but it will help fix your lamp post for the long-term. After all, who wants to keep revisiting the same post year after year? Ask your hardware store for rust inhibitor. Apply it generously to the bare surface and joints of your lamp post.
After applying the inhibitor, it's time to put on the metallic paint. This will probably come in the form of a spray, since your lamp post will probably have hard-to-reach joints that you'll simply want to coat quickly. Try to get a color that matches your lamp post's color for the sake of uniformity. If this isn't possible, you might simply try applying another coat of paint - which is another article entirely!
It's easier than you think to fix what seems "unfixable," such as a rusty lamp post. You simply need the right knowledge and the right equipment. Don't be afraid to experiment - after all, the skill might come in handy some day.
Photo Credits: gingher
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Posted by Fix Handyman on August 26, 2009 in
Furniture, Handyman, How to Fix, light fixtures
If your keys are stuck...
Having a grand piano in one of the rooms of your house is great - not only can you practice on it, but you can use it to entertain guests. But if a few of the keys on your piano are stuck, it takes away from the whole "piano-as-decor" theory. It can also be frustrating every time you try to hit that natural G. But every time you try to fix it, you don't seem to get anywhere.
Causes of Stuck Keys
There are a number of reasons a key might get stuck. The first - and most obvious - is dirt and debris getting into the cracks between each ivory key, essentially sticking two keys together. In order to clean between the keys, you'll need something that can get in between them. Because something sharp can scratch your piano, you might want to use a liquid. Water and a few drops of dish soap can often handle the job; just make sure that you don't go overboard with the liquids.
You'll also want to watch for swelling in the piano. Since most pianos are made of wood, one cause of a stuck key might actually be that wood underneath has swollen. Even if you're not sure how this came about, you might want to get inside to see if this really is the case.
Fixing Stuck Keys
To begin fixing a stuck key, look around the area of the key in order to ensure a proper diagnosis. Is there debris in the way? Might there be wood swelling? Does the problem go deeper than that? The problem will drive the kind of repairs you need to make.
Sometimes, the fix is as easy as cleaning out the cracks in the method already described. But if there seems to be something deeper in the piano, you'll probably have to remove the keys. For some people, looking under the keys can be an awakening of sorts, similar to the mess you might find under your couch after a few months.
The best way to make sure keys aren't stuck is prevention. Keep your house dry and regularly dust your piano. You won't have to clean it much if you don't bring drinks or food nearby, but if you absolutely must, then be sure to be careful not to spill.
Remember the essential rule of fixing anything: to fix something, you need to get down to the level of the problem, possibly doing some destroying in the process. If you need to take somthing apart in order to build it back up, that can often be better than simply replacing the unit as a whole.
Photo Credits: melinnis
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Posted by Fix Handyman on August 20, 2009 in
Handyman, How to Fix, Musical Instruments
Cabinet Paint Chips
Having uniform cabinets in your kitchen is important - any home decorator knows that an inconsistency in the color of your cabinets can upset the balance of the entire ensemble. This doesn't just mean that your cabinets should match, it means that they should be consistently colored a certain way, often a stained wood. But if all of your cabinets are painted white, it will be immediately noticeable if your paint has chipped in one spot. Don't worry; it's an easy fix.
If the chip is superficial, your only concern should really be finding the right color of paint to touch it up with. Many hardware and home improvement stores should feature touch-up paints. It would be very helpful if you knew the manufacturer and color of the paint itself so that you can simply apply more of the same and cover the paint chip. This will promote an overall consistency that you should be striving for.
There are other types of paint damage on your cabinets, however. For example, if one area of the paint has seen its color change (for example, because it stands over the area where you usually cook), then you'll have to do much more painting in order to restore a uniform color. The wider the discoloration, the more painting you can expect to do.
What confuses many people is the deeper chip - a chip that not only digs into the paint but the wood of the cabinet itself. For this job, you'll need a few more tools, such as sandpaper, wood filler, an evening trowel, primer, and the paint itself. First, clear out the area of the chip and clean it up - sometimes it even helps to wash it. You want as little debris as possible so that you can fill it completely.
Use the wood filler next - give yourself a little extra so that you can perfectly even it out using a trowel. Wait for the filler to dry, and then sand down the area - this will help the primer and paint stick and will also even everything out. Once you've sanded, make sure all of the degree is clear, and then apply the primer. Allow the primer to dry and then apply the properly colored paint to the area. Voila!
You might want to note that primer may not be necessary depending on the size of a chip. If you're still in doubt, be sure to ask your local hardware store.
Photo Credits: penny (peninah)
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Posted by Fix Handyman on August 19, 2009 in
Furniture, Handyman, How to Fix, paint
Noisy dishwasher? No problem, we can fix that!
When you have a noisy dishwasher, you don't exactly feel like doing the dishes. After all, doing the dishes alone isn't the most entertaining bit of home maintenance in the world. The prospect of adding noise to the equation when you're trying to watch the game on TV or hear your favorite television show makes the idea even less appealing. That's why you'll want to fix your noisy dishwasher as soon as you can - so you can get back to quiet evenings after a rough day at work.
Of course, in order to fix your noisy dishwasher, you'll have to know what's causing the noise in the first place. This is where most of the work in fixing the noise itself will take place. First, try to find your dishwasher's owner manual: if it gives any warnings against improper dish loading that you've been violating, the reason for the noisy dishwasher might simply be human error. Oops. Do the dishes right next time and hopefully the noise will subside.
It's not always human error, however. If the problem wasn't you, you'll have to do some dishwasher inspecting. The first place to look? The pump at the bottom of the dishwasher. Make sure that it's not clogged with debris such as stuck silverware, food, or uneaten seeds. This pump should be perfectly clean.
If that's not the problem, you also might want to make sure that your dishwasher is level. If your dishwasher sits on "feet," you should be able to adjust them manually. Use a level to check that it is not leaning forward/backward or to any one particular side.
If none of these fixes has made the noise go away, there's a possibility that your inlet valve is the source of the issues. The inlet valve is not an easy thing to replace, but you'll probably want it replaced if you want to get rid of the noise. If you're out of answers, call in a repairman who will know what makes your dishwasher become so noisy, and ask about the possibility of replacing the inlet valve. This could be the source of your noise, but it's not an easy challenge to take on yourself.
Make sure that you keep your dishwasher clean, regularly cleaning it out of debris and gunk. Even though the dishwasher seems like a self-cleaning machine, you'll want to check how clean it really is from time to time.
Photo Credits: scampion
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Posted by Fix Handyman on August 17, 2009 in
Handyman, How to Fix, appliances, kitchen
Clean out that debris!
If there's one thing that separates the do-it-yourself professionals from the amateurs, it's the ability to conserve. Using old things in new ways is the hallmark of the savvy home improvement fanatic, and nothing is when it comes to gutters. If you have an old gutter and want to install a modern rain removal system, there's no reason you can't teach the old dog new tricks and make it work it better ways. It will save you money and time, so why not?
The first thing you'll want to do with an old gutter is to clean it off - cracked-on dirt, debris, and dust can hide some leaks and holes that you need to know about. Be generous with the house and scrub the thing so that it looks as new as it can. After you've let it dry a little, try running some water through it as a test. If there are any leaks or holes, it's time to make sure that those leaks are no more.
In order to repair a leak or a hole in your old gutter, you're going to need to re-seal it. Gutter sealer from your hardware store (if you have caulk-like substances around the house, you might be able to use those) will fill the cracks and trap the water like the gutter was originally meant to. Be sure to check the overlapping on these old gutters, as they are sometimes less efficient than modern ones and may need to be sealed themselves.
Small holes and leaks aren't the only ways you can salvage an old gutter - even the big gaping cracks can be fixed if you have the right materials. If you have two old gutters, for example, you can use the metal of one of them to replace the metal of the other; if you use some roof cement you should be able to press one piece of metal to the other, sealing it off and making the old gutter like new. It might not be the prettiest gutter in the world, but you don't exactly have to put it out front for everyone to see.
Remember that gutters are rarely used for decoration: their primary function is simply to move water in a way that keeps the house dry and interacts with the natural environment. When you come across an old gutter that you think might have some life in it, don't necessarily toss it away instantly. Instead, ask yourself more practical questions, like what you can do with the metal, whether you can salvage the gutter, and where it might belong if it can be salvaged. It's up to you to make the most of your possessions. Will you?
Photo Credits: Mitia dd
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Posted by Fix Handyman on August 13, 2009 in
Handyman, How to Fix, gutters
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