Rusty and crusty? No problem!
For the beginning handy-man, it's pretty obvious that none of us were born knowing how to fix devices like lamp posts. But if you have a lamp post on your property that's been gathering rust for who knows how long, it might be time to take out the equipment and set to work. Which equipment will you want to bring out? Start with steel wool (or a wire brush), a rust inhibitor, metallic paint, a high-speed rotary (see details below), and safety glasses or goggles. It's time to finally fix that rusty lamp post.
Use your steel wool/wire brush (you can use both if you want to) to scrape away any debris or dust that won't be part of this job. You'll be working with the lamp post and its rust - before you try anything else, you're going to want to make sure all other debris is removed. Getting debris in the way can lead to a poor paint job once it's all done; the goal here is consistency.
A high-speed rotary with a #500 aluminum oxide grinding wheel will be important for removing the hardest rust. You can't exactly expect to scrape the rust away. Make sure you wear safety goggles, no matter how brave you're feeling.
Once you've scraped the rust down to size, apply a rust inhibitor so that the areas you've exposed won't begin to rust over themselves. This might not seem totally necessary, but it will help fix your lamp post for the long-term. After all, who wants to keep revisiting the same post year after year? Ask your hardware store for rust inhibitor. Apply it generously to the bare surface and joints of your lamp post.
After applying the inhibitor, it's time to put on the metallic paint. This will probably come in the form of a spray, since your lamp post will probably have hard-to-reach joints that you'll simply want to coat quickly. Try to get a color that matches your lamp post's color for the sake of uniformity. If this isn't possible, you might simply try applying another coat of paint - which is another article entirely!
It's easier than you think to fix what seems "unfixable," such as a rusty lamp post. You simply need the right knowledge and the right equipment. Don't be afraid to experiment - after all, the skill might come in handy some day.
Photo Credits: gingher
Originally posted 2009-08-26 03:41:55.
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Posted by Fix Handyman on January 30, 2012 in
Furniture, Handyman, How to Fix, light fixtures
Blistering paint job.
When you add a coat or two of paint to your home, you expect that paint to stick there and for that to be that. But life isn't always that easy, as sometimes the paint will peel, blister, or even chip off. So how do you fix some of the most common paint problems you'll find around the house? If that's the question you're asking yourself this weekend, you've come to the right article:
Problem: Paint blistering. What does paint blistering look like? Like skin blisters, except not (necessarily) red. Blistering paint will have bumps that pop up, and this can be caused by a number of problems, such as trapped water vapor underneath the paint. You can't simply paint over this problem, so how do you fix it?
Solution: Start over. If the cause of the paint blistering is coming from inside the house, you'll want to fix that. But when it comes to the pain itself, you'll likely have to start over - scrap the paint off, re-sand the surface, and re-paint the area using the same method you did around the rest of the area. Let the paint dry and re-evaluate the entire area in a few weeks.
Problem: Paint is "chalking," spreading to areas underneath the paint in what looks like chalk. Paint that "chalks" has a layer of what looks like chalk appear on it, also affecting other areas that you don't want covered in what appears to be paint powder. Chalking is a problem that often comes from lower-quality paint, and you might see it if you used a contractor.
Solutions: You'll have to fix the paint itself, or else the area will simply continue chalking and you'll need to keep cleaning the effected area. In order to do this, you'll want to do as much as you can to replace the paint job - remember that chalk would be considered debris like any other paint job. Apply a layer of higher-quality latex paint after washing and rinsing the chalking off, and then clean the affect areas (such as masonry walls including bricks) with specialized cleaners that are designed for those areas.
Problem: Paint "sagging" or running makes the paint look like old skin. Forgive the image, but "sagging" is an ugly way for your paint to settle anyway. Here's how to fix it.
Solution: Sand over the effected area - where there will typically be an area of excess paint - and repaint over that area.
Photo credits: Photos by Mavis
Originally posted 2009-12-01 03:44:40.
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Posted by Fix Handyman on January 16, 2012 in
Handyman, How to Fix, paint
Noisy dishwasher? No problem, we can fix that!
When you have a noisy dishwasher, you don't exactly feel like doing the dishes. After all, doing the dishes alone isn't the most entertaining bit of home maintenance in the world. The prospect of adding noise to the equation when you're trying to watch the game on TV or hear your favorite television show makes the idea even less appealing. That's why you'll want to fix your noisy dishwasher as soon as you can - so you can get back to quiet evenings after a rough day at work.
Of course, in order to fix your noisy dishwasher, you'll have to know what's causing the noise in the first place. This is where most of the work in fixing the noise itself will take place. First, try to find your dishwasher's owner manual: if it gives any warnings against improper dish loading that you've been violating, the reason for the noisy dishwasher might simply be human error. Oops. Do the dishes right next time and hopefully the noise will subside.
It's not always human error, however. If the problem wasn't you, you'll have to do some dishwasher inspecting. The first place to look? The pump at the bottom of the dishwasher. Make sure that it's not clogged with debris such as stuck silverware, food, or uneaten seeds. This pump should be perfectly clean.
If that's not the problem, you also might want to make sure that your dishwasher is level. If your dishwasher sits on "feet," you should be able to adjust them manually. Use a level to check that it is not leaning forward/backward or to any one particular side.
If none of these fixes has made the noise go away, there's a possibility that your inlet valve is the source of the issues. The inlet valve is not an easy thing to replace, but you'll probably want it replaced if you want to get rid of the noise. If you're out of answers, call in a repairman who will know what makes your dishwasher become so noisy, and ask about the possibility of replacing the inlet valve. This could be the source of your noise, but it's not an easy challenge to take on yourself.
Make sure that you keep your dishwasher clean, regularly cleaning it out of debris and gunk. Even though the dishwasher seems like a self-cleaning machine, you'll want to check how clean it really is from time to time.
Photo Credits: scampion
Originally posted 2009-08-17 03:00:21.
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Posted by Fix Handyman on December 23, 2011 in
appliances, Handyman, How to Fix, kitchen
If your keys are stuck...
Having a grand piano in one of the rooms of your house is great - not only can you practice on it, but you can use it to entertain guests. But if a few of the keys on your piano are stuck, it takes away from the whole "piano-as-decor" theory. It can also be frustrating every time you try to hit that natural G. But every time you try to fix it, you don't seem to get anywhere.
Causes of Stuck Keys
There are a number of reasons a key might get stuck. The first - and most obvious - is dirt and debris getting into the cracks between each ivory key, essentially sticking two keys together. In order to clean between the keys, you'll need something that can get in between them. Because something sharp can scratch your piano, you might want to use a liquid. Water and a few drops of dish soap can often handle the job; just make sure that you don't go overboard with the liquids.
You'll also want to watch for swelling in the piano. Since most pianos are made of wood, one cause of a stuck key might actually be that wood underneath has swollen. Even if you're not sure how this came about, you might want to get inside to see if this really is the case.
Fixing Stuck Keys
To begin fixing a stuck key, look around the area of the key in order to ensure a proper diagnosis. Is there debris in the way? Might there be wood swelling? Does the problem go deeper than that? The problem will drive the kind of repairs you need to make.
Sometimes, the fix is as easy as cleaning out the cracks in the method already described. But if there seems to be something deeper in the piano, you'll probably have to remove the keys. For some people, looking under the keys can be an awakening of sorts, similar to the mess you might find under your couch after a few months.
The best way to make sure keys aren't stuck is prevention. Keep your house dry and regularly dust your piano. You won't have to clean it much if you don't bring drinks or food nearby, but if you absolutely must, then be sure to be careful not to spill.
Remember the essential rule of fixing anything: to fix something, you need to get down to the level of the problem, possibly doing some destroying in the process. If you need to take somthing apart in order to build it back up, that can often be better than simply replacing the unit as a whole.
Photo Credits: melinnis
Originally posted 2009-08-20 03:34:45.
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Posted by Fix Handyman on December 18, 2011 in
Handyman, How to Fix, Musical Instruments
Loose or Broken Tile?
Whether your kitchen floor is new or old, there's nothing that disturbs the balance of a room quite like a broken tile. After all, tiles were installed with a pattern in mind: break one link in the chain and the whole thing falls apart. That's why it's important to know how to fix a broken tile - like learning how to change a tire, sometime it pays to know how before you have to do it.
First, we can assume that the conjoining material between each tile is already hard, which means that you'll have to do a little work that might include dust and debris. Make sure to wear protective eye goggles - you might even want to cover your mouth to prevent inhaling too much dust into your lungs.
Next, you'll have to destroy and remove any leftover spots from the previous tile. Most likely your tile is still in place, unless the whole tile itself came out already. In order to remove tile chips, you're going to want to follow a precise pattern: break the tile in the center using a hammer and nailset, and then cut the tile into an X pattern using a glass cutter. Then you can use the hammer to chip away the rest of the tile - beginning in the center - and pry up the pieces using a metal tool.
Once the area is cleared of the main tile bits, it's time for you to dry it out - suck out the remaining debris with a vacuum cleaner. It might not hurt to sand down any protruding areas that might get in the way for the new tile, so be sure to vacuum after you've done the sanding, as well.
Now that you have a clear area where your tile used to be, it's time to replace the tile. First you're going to want to fill the area with latex primer and allow it to dry - you should probably make sure to protect this area so that no one steps in it, particularly small children if you have them. After the primer has dried, you can apply tile adhesive, making sure to move it left and right to make sure it settles in properly. It's important to keep the tile level, so use a mallet to make sure that it gets in far enough. Any extra tile adhesive that comes out of the sides can be scooped up with a stick or screwdriver.
Give the tile some time to dry and you should be all finished. You've covered up the spot in your kitchen that detracted from all the rest. Now if you could just get a new set of cupboards.
Photo Credits: wakingphotolife
Originally posted 2009-08-04 13:55:27.
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Posted by Fix Handyman on December 14, 2011 in
Floors, Handyman, How to Fix, kitchen
Clean out that debris!
If there's one thing that separates the do-it-yourself professionals from the amateurs, it's the ability to conserve. Using old things in new ways is the hallmark of the savvy home improvement fanatic, and nothing is when it comes to gutters. If you have an old gutter and want to install a modern rain removal system, there's no reason you can't teach the old dog new tricks and make it work it better ways. It will save you money and time, so why not?
The first thing you'll want to do with an old gutter is to clean it off - cracked-on dirt, debris, and dust can hide some leaks and holes that you need to know about. Be generous with the house and scrub the thing so that it looks as new as it can. After you've let it dry a little, try running some water through it as a test. If there are any leaks or holes, it's time to make sure that those leaks are no more.
In order to repair a leak or a hole in your old gutter, you're going to need to re-seal it. Gutter sealer from your hardware store (if you have caulk-like substances around the house, you might be able to use those) will fill the cracks and trap the water like the gutter was originally meant to. Be sure to check the overlapping on these old gutters, as they are sometimes less efficient than modern ones and may need to be sealed themselves.
Small holes and leaks aren't the only ways you can salvage an old gutter - even the big gaping cracks can be fixed if you have the right materials. If you have two old gutters, for example, you can use the metal of one of them to replace the metal of the other; if you use some roof cement you should be able to press one piece of metal to the other, sealing it off and making the old gutter like new. It might not be the prettiest gutter in the world, but you don't exactly have to put it out front for everyone to see.
Remember that gutters are rarely used for decoration: their primary function is simply to move water in a way that keeps the house dry and interacts with the natural environment. When you come across an old gutter that you think might have some life in it, don't necessarily toss it away instantly. Instead, ask yourself more practical questions, like what you can do with the metal, whether you can salvage the gutter, and where it might belong if it can be salvaged. It's up to you to make the most of your possessions. Will you?
Photo Credits: Mitia dd
Originally posted 2009-08-13 03:38:59.
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Posted by Fix Handyman on November 13, 2011 in
gutters, Handyman, How to Fix
Fixing your deck stain?
The overall stain of your deck is part of what gives it its charm. The more you use your deck, the happier you are with your deck, but the more you can expect to wear away at the original stain of the wood. If your deck has been in need of a new deck stain for a while now, it's time to actually get around to it and update it with a fresh new look. You don't have to be a deck expert to get this done; you just need the right instructions.
First, you'll want to apply a deck stripper to the deck. This won't solve everything for you, but it will prepare the deck for what will happen in the next steps. Make sure that you choose the appropriate stripper for the kind of wood you have; if you have any questions about this, try asking someone at the local hardware store for some advice, or at least do an internet search on the type of wood you're using.
After this part of the job is finished, you'll want to rent a pressure washer. When you bring it home, be sure that your deck is clear of the big stuff (tables, chairs) and the small stuff (stones, debris). Why? You're going to be spraying down your deck with a high-intensity spray, and you don't want to send anything flying!
In conjunction with the deck stripper you've already applied, your pressure washer should be able to peel off the old stain to your deck, or at least give your deck a new, uniform color. You might also be able to incorporate deck cleaners that remove old stains; once again, questions should be directed to your local hardware or home improvement store. Once you've stripped the stain, wash it out and let the deck dry over the period of a few days.
Now that you've removed the old stain, it's time to select a new stain. You might have had something in mind already, but if you simply wanted to fix the old stain, you've got some thinking to do. Choose a stain that works well for your wood, and if you can, make sure to test the stain on an idle piece of wood to see that it has the color you like.
Once this is ready, you should be good to apply the new stain to your wood. You'll want to let it dry and set in before using your deck; after a period of a few to several days, your deck should be looking brand-new and properly stained. Congratulations! You've fixed a deck stain. Now if you could just get that wine stain out of your shirt...
Photo Credits: Jeff_Werner
Originally posted 2009-09-03 03:20:33.
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Posted by Fix Handyman on November 7, 2011 in
Backyard, Deck, Handyman, How to Fix
Staircase balusters
A baluster can be a crucial element to your staircase handrail, both in terms of design and function. So when one needs replacing, it can look like quite a heavy task. Luckily, it's not as bad as you think, and once you tackle the tough work of finding a replacement baluster that fits in with the rest, many do-it-yourselfers should generally have a fair time getting the new baluster installed.
First, you'll obviously want to find a new baluster that is well-suited to match with your other ones. Make sure to find one from the same company, if possible, or failing that at least find something similar. It will also help to get a new baluster that is slightly longer - say an inch or two - than your other ones so that you can modify it down to the proper size and fit.
Finding a replacement baluster can be a major part of the pain involved, but once you have that in hand, you're ready to move to the next step. (Note: It will help to check out the other balusters as you do this, as there may be further damaging than you thought.)
Take out the old baluster and prepare the area for a new one, generally through a process of cleaning and sanding. Clear out any old debris that may be present so that your new baluster can have a smooth fit. Sanding the area down will generally help any painting you might need to do, so don't skip out on this part if you really want an accurate matching with the new baluster.
Next, do your best to measure the size the baluster will need to be, and subsequently cut it down to that size. Insert the baluster to the proper location and note any changes that might be needed - for example, do you need to whittle it down further? Make sure you use wood glue in order for the baluster to stay in place. Nail in the baluster so that it's secure, and paint the area you need to paint, letting it dry overnight.
Now that you look at your staircase handrail, you should notice a relatively consistent color and look. Congratulations! You've successfully fixed your baluster by replacing it. Keep in mind some of the repairs you've made in case you need to replace another baluster in the future. Now, if only the deck was this easy...
Photo Credits: Ctd 2005
Originally posted 2010-01-12 03:41:19.
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Posted by Fix Handyman on October 31, 2011 in
Handyman, How to Fix, Staircase
Get your home looking great!
Your home should look beautiful - not only because you live in it, but because you want to show a level of respect and responsibility when it comes to the things you own. Well, or the things you're paying off each month. Either way, if you want a home with beautiful siding, siding spots simply won't do. If you plan on selling a house with siding spots, it might be a good idea to take a Saturday afternoon to fix them. Here's how you can do it.
First, identify all of the spots you plan on fixing. Knowing how much fixing you're going to be doing will allow you to know how much primer and color-matched paint you're going to need. If you still have paint of the original color, make sure you have enough; if not, try visiting the hardware store to have the color matched.
Next, you'll have to find a way to grind the spot smooth. Whether this is with sandpaper or a small power grinder, you might want to get in touch with your hardware store and see what they recommend. If you already have a small power grinder, you shouldn't have too much trouble leveling the surface and preparing it for priming and painting.
Wear the surface down and try to make the level relatively consistent with the rest of the siding. Once the surface has been properly worn down, continue the "prepping" by cleaning out the area of dust and paint chips. You don't want to apply primer and paint over this debris, to try to clean each spot as thoroughly as possible.
Now that you've got a clean spot to paint over, apply your primer. Apply thinly but try to make sure that you also apply evenly and thoroughly. This will allow for more paint to stick to the area and completely fill in the spot.
Once the primer has dried from your siding spots, apply the paint. Use oil or latex-based paint for your siding, and - voila! You should be clear of siding spots.
You'll find that having a home clear of siding spots will help you feel more confident when it's time to sell it. You want your home to look as good as possible when you're selling it, and siding spots simply aren't in the cards. If you're simply taking care of your home for your own sake, you'll feel proud of yourself and might even ask, "what's next?"
Photo Credits: iLoveButter
Originally posted 2009-09-14 03:49:04.
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Posted by Fix Handyman on October 14, 2011 in
Handyman, House, How to Fix, paint
Fix your Patio Roof.
One of the most common problems you'll come across in your home improvement is rust. Rust seems to be everywhere, unless you know how to prevent it and how to get rid of it. Oftentimes, the rust will show up in the places you ignore the most - areas like the patio roof, where rust is frequently an issue do-it-yourselfers have to address. So how can you repair your patio roof without doing damage to the patio?
If you're going to be up on your patio roof, you need to address some basics thanks to the theory of gravity. First, you'll need to make sure that your ladder leading up to the roof is secure - have someone else hold it for you to make sure. You'll also want to tread carefully, knowing that your weight is not insignificant and can pose a risk if you're dealing with a particularly weak roof. The higher your roof is, the higher your risks are, so be prepared.
If your patio roof is infected with rust, then you're going to want to clean the roof off as much as possible before you begin work. Brush and sweep away debris, leaves, and other unwelcome contaminants that would get in the way of your tools and the rust on your patio roof. You'll want the roof to be as clean as possible when you begin your work so that nothing interferes later on.
Next, you'll want to use a pressure washer to help you scrape off rust and mildew from the roof. A mixture of three parts water to one part chlorine bleach can be a very effect cleaner - just make sure you don't get it in your eyes or near anyone else, for that matter. This should be a very effective cleaning that will help remove any excess materials you don't want on your roof, paving the way for a smooth foundation. If any parts are still stubborn, you'll want to use sandpaper to actually widdle away at the rust.
Applying a roof sealant will help protect against any holes that might have been brought about by the rust, so apply a coat of sealant next, being careful to make it even. Let this sit and dry for a long time. In order to make sure that the roof is dry, wait for a clear weather report with high pressure systems.
After you've completed the repairs on your roof, be sure to visit it occasionally, checking on the progress of any rust and making sure there are no leaks or potential holes developing. The better prepared you are, the less you'll have to deal with these problems in the future.
Photo Credits: bossco
Originally posted 2009-08-06 03:04:01.
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Posted by Fix Handyman on October 2, 2011 in
Handyman, How to Fix, Patio
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